Camino Inglés Day 2 Fene to Miño 09/10/2023

October 09, 2023

20.09 km. 9 hours of which actual walking 4:34 h. Sunny, 32 degrees C

Woke up before the alarm went at 6 am, prepared my coffee and packed while it cooled and then had a leisurely hour, reading the newspaper and having a look at what the camino had in store for me today. And for once I left into the dark at 7:45h.

Wonderfully cool and no problem finding my way because of well lit streets. I was surprised how long it was before the sky was beginning to light up, well after 8 o’clock!

Had my first pause after 2 hours, many stops consulting the map, actual walking only about 1:45 h. 15 min stop and here I am stopping again after only three quarters of an hour during which I had a long palaver with a man and another palaver with a woman who came struggling up the hill I was going down. She warned me about the steep climb I would have to face on the other side of the valley. Am now in Pontedeume - at sea level, sitting in a bar with a café con leche and una tónica, trying to gather strength for the terrible climb ahead.

Meanwhile the sun is also gathering strength……

Made it to Miño. Much later than I expected. The promised climb was as terrible as the lady had said. And so very long. With a farmacia at the beginning (see photo, when I manage to load them at last) when it is not needed, and no farmacia at the end.

Except for a fairly long flat section this was alternating ups and downs all the time. Some of them very steep and most of them very long. The ups made me lose my breath - however the downs were very bad on my knees and my feet. You cannot avoid sliding forward inside your shoes and thus hurting your toes. I tried to tie my boot laces more tightly, no good.

After that first terrible climb I found the perfect picnic/siesta place under a group of chestnut trees with dense shade, still beautifully cool at 2 pm. It was high above the road. I could see pilgrims passing and everybody might have seen me, but nobody looked up.

After the siesta I set up my hands-free umbrella and pulled my buff over my head to stop the sweat from rolling down my face. That was when the flat section started, mostly overshadowed. It went along a sort of embankment ( not sure of my English here) the way these were constructed to keep it level for trains. Lots of such disused railway lines in Brittanny, all turned into walking or/and cycling paths.

Did not see any more walkers after my siesta and ended up once more in a hotel - I do appreciate a room to myself and a bathroom all to myself, although it is interesting meeting the other pilgrims. On the other hand I walk shorter stages than most other people, so it is highlly unlikely that I would see anybody again.

I have been writing this in a restaurant which serves meals earlier than 8 pm which is the normal time in this country. Well, finished my meal. Go “home” now and transfer this text to the blog. And another attempt at transferring the photos.…

This is a seaside resort, lots of people walking about in beach type clothes.